A slot must first be cut, using the axe, at right angles to the pull of the rope and as deep as possible. The basic belay for crevasse rescue in snow is the horizontally buried ice axe (if the snow isn’t deep enough then this is where the ice screw comes in). Ascertain whether it’s possible for the victim to ascend the rope using his prussik loops, assuming he knows how to do this.A group of 4 or 5 people will be able to use brute force to pull the victim up or, at worst, help in the following stages of the rescue. Shout to try to make contact with the victim – it may well be that by lowering him slightly he will be able to walk out of the crevasse on the other side.The ideal reaction is to jerk backwards and adopt a semi-sitting position, with the shaft of the axe plunged into the snow (see Figure 2).īefore doing anything else the rescuer should: If the other person is pulled flat on his face then arresting the fall becomes very difficult. The first reaction to one of the walkers falling into a crevasse can determine success or failure. She also runs her own trekking businesses offering guided walks in the Alps and Provence. She has written several guidebooks for Cicerone Press, including Trekking the Tour of Monte Rosa. Hilary is an expert mountaineer and holder of the International Mountain Leader award. In this follow up article by Hilary Sharp, she details Crevasse Rescue Techniques to use when trekking.
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